Consumers are increasingly interested in cosmetics that treat, mitigate, or delay the signs of aging or aged skin. The signs of aging or aged skin manifest themselves in lines and wrinkles, sagging, dullness, discoloration, uneven tone, and/or rough texture. Further, aged skin lacks strength and elasticity and is therefore fragile. The cosmetics industry is actively pursuing products that may be used to reduce signs of aging or aged skin (anti-aging compounds) and thereby provide anti-wrinkle, rejuvenating, and skin lightening benefits.
Human skin is broadly divided into two layers: the surface epidermis which provides an anatomical barrier to foreign elements and maintains the body's internal environment, and the underlying dermis which provides nutritional and structural support to the epidermis. The epidermis mainly consists of keratinocytes and is comprised of several sub-layers (from the innermost outwards): Stratum germinativum/Stratum basale, Stratum spinosum, Stratum granulosum, and Stratum corneum. The keratinocytes, generated by the mitosis of keratinocyte stem cells, originate in the stratum basale and then push up through the strata. As these cells move to the surface of the skin they undergo gradual differentiation, becoming anucleated, flattened, and highly keratinized. During this process the keratinocytes become highly organized. They form desmosomes, cellular junctions, between each other and, through the excretion of keratin proteins and lipids, form an extracellular matrix which strengthens the skin. Eventually the keratinocytes die off and form the stratum corneum. In healthy skin, keratinocytes are shed and replaced continuously every 30 days.
While the keratinocytes are within the stratum basale they acquire melanin, a black ultraviolet light absorbing pigment, from melanocytes. Melanocytes produce melanin within organelles known as melanosomes and then transfer the melanin containing melanosomes to neighboring keratinocytes via their dendrites. Within each keratinocyte the melanosomes form a melanin cap which is retained within the keratinocyte until the keratinocyte is shed from the skin. The melanin cap reduces ultra-violet-induced DNA damage to the human epidermis and the underlying cells and tissues. Melanin provides the skin with its color and thus the intensity of skin color is directly related to the number, size, melanin content, rate at which melanin containing melanosomes are formed, rate at which the melanin containing melanosomes are transferred to keratinocytes, and rate at which melanin degrades within keratinocytes. For a more detailed background on melanin, see G. Costin and V. Hearing, “Human skin pigmentation: melanocytes modulate skin color in response to stress,” The FASEB Journal Vol. 21, pages 976-994, April 2007, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
Hyaluronic acid (HA), a gel-like aminoglycan, also plays an important role in normal epidermis. HA is an integral part of the extracellular matrix of basal keratinocytes, maintaining the extracellular space and providing an open as well as hydrated structure for the passage of nutrients. HA also acts as a free-radical scavenger, contributing to epidermal protection against solar radiation. HA may also act as a modulator of keratinocyte proliferation and migration.
The dermis is the underlying layer of the skin located between the epidermis and subcutaneous tissue. Since the epidermis lacks blood vessels, the cells of the epidermis rely upon the blood vessels in the dermis for their nutrients and oxygen. The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is a specialized structure that maintains close contact between the lamina densa, a layer of extracellular matrix upon which the epithelium sits, and the underlying connective tissue of the dermis. The DEJ is comprised mainly of collagen and elastin and structured as interlocking finger-like projections from the epidermal and dermal layers called Rete ridges. The Rete ridges increase the surface area of the epidermis exposed to the dermis at the DEJ, so that the transfer of necessary nutrients/oxygen is more efficient, and the two layers of the skin form a strong bond that resists mechanical stress (shear). Additionally, the dermis is the thickest of the skin layers and comprises the extracellular matrix of the skin, which is maintained by fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain the structural integrity of connective tissues by continuously secreting precursors of the extracellular matrix. The main structural component of the dermis is a protein called collagen. Bundles of collagen molecules pack together throughout the dermis, accounting for three-fourths of the dry weight of skin. Collagen has great tensile strength; along with soft keratin, it is responsible for skin strength and elasticity. For a more detailed background on collagen, see Lodish, et al. Molecular Cell Biology, W.H. FREEMAN, New York, N.Y. 4th edition, 2000, the disclosures of which is incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
Histological studies of the skin show that as aging occurs, the skin undergoes structural, functional, and metabolic changes that parallel the aging and degenerative changes in other body organs. While chronological and/or hormonal aging play a significant role in skin aging, environmental stresses such as sun exposure may initiate and/or accelerate the aging of the skin due to, in part, oxidative damage from overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) sunlight. In aged and/or aging skin the cells may take longer to replenish, be less numerous, and/or breakdown more quickly. In particular, as aging occurs, the production of collagen is reduced while the degradation is accelerated due to an overproduction of collagenase, i.e. a protease that breaks down collagen. The resulting collagen deficiency may lead to reduction in skin strength and elasticity. Further, given that collagen is a major component of the DEJ, the DEJ flattens out with aging, such that the skin is more fragile and more likely to shear. As the DEJ flattens the amount of nutrients/oxygen transferred to the epidermis through the DEJ is reduced because the surface area in contact with the epidermis shrinks. The reduction of HA within the epidermal extracellular matrix reduces the epidermis'ability to transfer the available nutrients/oxygen to its cells. This inefficient nutrient/oxygen transport impacts the keratinocytes and mealnocytes of the epidermis. The keratinocytes renewal rate is reduced and as a consequence the stratum corneum loses its capacity to retain moisture and the skin dehydrates. Moreover, the melanocytes become less numerous and the remaining melanocytes may produce a greater amount of melanin leading to discoloration/hyperpigmentation of the skin and/or solar lentigenes, “age spots.” At the surface of the skin, aged or aging skin may exhibit lines and wrinkles, sagging, dullness, discoloration, uneven tone, rough texture, and the like. Additionally, aged or aging skin exhibits less strength and flexibility and is more fragile. These signs of aging may be exacerbated by common medications such as those prescribed for the treatment of Parkinson's disease, i.e. Levodopa, or menopause, i.e. hormone therapies.
One well known product used for anti-aging skin care is retinol which has proven to be effective in diminishing the visual signs of aging on facial skin. Retinol has negative effects including the tendency to cause skin irritation or the tendency to breakdown when exposed to oxygen or UV thereby impairing its effectiveness.
Maesa japonica, also known as du jing shan or izo-senryo, is a multiperennial plant native to South China, Vietnam, and Japan. The plant has leaves that are hard papyraceous or almost coriaceous; elliptic, narrow elliptic lanceolate, or obliong ovate; 6 to 9 cm in length and 3 to 5 cm in width; apex acuminate, acuate or muticous; base rounded or obtuse; seldom cuneate; almost entire or serrate on the upper; lateral veins 5 to 8 pairs; with a petiole 5 to 15 mm in length. Flowers are axilary raceme or panicle; usu. Solitary, sometime aggregate; flowers 3 to 5 mm in length; nephroid bractlet, with conspicuous gland-like stripes; calyx, imbricate, ovate to orbiculate; mitriform corolla, white, 3 to 4 mm in length, with gland-like shapes and a broad ovate lobe. Maesa japonica leaves have been employed in traditional Chinese medicine to cure seven-year itch.
There remains a need for cosmetic compositions which address the signs of aging, in particular the appearance of wrinkles, lines, and discolored areas. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide new compositions and methods for treating, ameliorating, and/or preventing signs of aged or aging skin. It is a further object of the invention to improve the overall appearance of aging or aged skin.
The foregoing discussion is presented solely to provide a better understanding of the nature of the problems confronting the art and should not be construed in any way as an admission as to prior art nor should the citation of any reference herein be construed as an admission that such reference constitutes “prior art” to the instant application.